WHY NOT FLAT PATTERN MAKING

For sometime, flat pattern making had been looked on as unnecessary in some Nigerian tailoring spaces. I can remember a time when I was an apprentice learning the basics of tailoring in 2009, after graduating from secondary school, we had a lady come in from a Lagos fashion company to learn how to cut with freehand. She had sewing knowledge but didn’t know how to cut on her own. We actually laughed at her when she told us they used rulers to draw lines. As far as we were concerned, you had to learn how to draw perfectly straight lines with freehand. We thought it lazy even to use a ruler to draw lines. It was a time of ignorance honestly, but we weren’t the only ones with this type of mindset mainly because our fashion space then was one predominantly occupied with freehand tailors. Most tailors around us wanted to achieve a lot without spending an equivalent amount of time to achieve it. And you can’t really blame them, they have been using this process for a long time, it has worked for them and their clientele are also looking for cheap services with a short turn over period. So it’s a culmination of various factors. For me though, I realized that I had so many questions then that went unanswered by the freehand pattern process. There’s a lot of unanswered questions that result in multiple errors and I can tell you from experience that the free hand pattern making method leaves you with more questions than answers.

But on the bright side and in recent times, our fashion space has gradually began opening up to the idea and importance of flat pattern making especially now that there’s the desire for well fitting garments, emerging ready to wear brands needing to compete favorably in the international fashion space, and brands needing to keep record of patterns, grade to different sizes and store up their patterns for future reuse.

In fact, designers and fashion-preneurs all over have realized that if you desire structure in your business, one thing you need to ensure you possess is the skill in pattern-making (amongst other attributes) or you hire an experienced pattern maker. If you do not, you stand the danger of being left behind and overtaken by new brands who understand the importance of structure in the fashion process and the high desire and demand for well fitting garments.

I UNDERSTAND THAT FLAT PATTERN MAKING HAS IT’S “DISADVANTAGES”

The fashion business is one that thrives on speed and availability. How fast can you produce and put your products out in the market and how fast can you restock when your products are out?

Pattern making on the other hand requires time and accuracy. 

You can’t really rush the process. And it can be frustrating because product development isn’t only about pattern making. There’s the entire sampling process that involves getting the pattern right, toiling the pattern, fixing pattern issues before sampling on actual fabric (that’s if there’s no issues in the pattern). So it’s a very time consuming process, that’s why brands plan way ahead of time so they can keep up with the seasons.

But as much as pattern making can be stressful, involving a lot of mathematics and technical drawings, the cost it saves you is worth it in the end.

SO WHAT ARE THE ATTRIBUTES OF A PATTERN MAKER?

The pattern maker is one who needs to have an understanding of all the major parts of garment construction. That’s asides the fact that they are very well conversant with the three major pattern making principles (dart manipulation, added volume and contouring).

They must understand fabric behavior and drap, and  professional sewing techniques. The should be able to analyze styles either from samples or illustrations, and must have an understanding of body proportions. In fact, the pattern maker must be educated in these different aspects so as to excel in their field.

But don’t let this scare you. If you’re are like me who enjoys piercing together puzzles no matter how long it might take, then maybe you should try your hand at pattern making. It’s not going to be an easy ride, but it is quite rewarding in the end.

For me, every time I see a dress that has been made from a pattern I drafted, I get very proud of myself. Seeing the fit of the garment, how it sits well on the form, knowing that my mathematics was actually right. I get an exhilarating feeling every single time. It never gets old.